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Monday, April 16, 2012

Container Gardening - Redesigning the Front Garden

My very small front garden is currently undergoing change and will be more low maintenance, with concrete pavers, gravel and plants in containers.  At the moment I'm just putting new plants in pots while I'm wondering what to do with what's left of the lawn when I dig it up.  

Not having a side gate to the garden would mean taking soil through the house and up the two flights of steps to the back garden, although much of the grass has died anyway as the dog uses the front garden as his toilet area.   One narrow strip of flower bed I'm keeping,  as I don't want to dig up my rose 'hedge' near the picket fence.  I've scattered foxglove seeds in the other one and don't want to dig up an established shrub which seems to be growing fine under the shade of my neighbours hedge.  It is my neighbours hedge which blocks the afternoon sun from my front garden, and which inspired me to create a low maintenance garden with plants in containers.  

I never got around to planting any sweet peas by the fence this year.  Last year I grew some from seed and they did better in the front than in the back garden, so I'm hoping some of the seeds falling from last years plants will germinate.  The roses (Wild Edric) look more established in their second year so they may manage to form a hedge this year.  It was the rose bushes that provided the only support for the sweet peas.

I bought a free-standing trellis panel to hide the bin area, up which I will grow clematis.  
Eventually I'll post photos of each plant once it is in bloom.  

The good thing about container gardening is that you can move the pots to a less conspicuous part of the garden once they have finished flowering.  Plus the drainage is better, you can change the soil conditions easily, and the plants are more visible when not at ground level.  I can also take them with me if I move house.  Below is a list of what I have so far in pots, starting with the largest pot:

1.  Corkscrew Hazel  (Corylus avellana 'Contorta') underplanted with Lemon Balm, Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis), Parsley, and Saxifraga Mossy Mixed.

2.  Tree Fern  (Discksonia Antartica)

3.  Acer palmatum 'Osakazuki'

4.  Herb Container with Lavender, Chamomile, St. John's Wort, Artemisia absinthium and a low pinky mauve Hebe (that wasn't named when I bought it).

5.  Clematis 'Princess Diana'  (to grow up trellis hiding the bins), with Viburnum purpurea.

6.  Two pots, one on either side of the window, with Honeysuckle (two varieties as they flower at different times).  There is also a clematis in one and a white passionflower in the other, but the tags seem to have gone missing already.  That's one good reason why I need this blog.  I plan to train the honeysuckle around the window so they meet in the middle, and hopefully this will give some character to a boring house facade, as well as linking the house and garden visually.  I had bought some decorative metal trellis at a bargain price from Lidl, and I may just attach wires to that to form an square-ish arch around the window.

7.  Smaller individual pots each contain one plant of Rosemary, Hebe 'Emerald Green', Camelia (a white one), and a pot of very fragrant narcissus bulbs which have now died off.

Below are my notes to remind me of anything I need to 'do' to any of them later on in the year, and also the flowering months or season of interest for each.  None of the photos are mine yet, I'll have to wait until the plants mature, these are just for identification purposes as names on their own don't always mean anything.  I'll do  separate post for the hard landscaping once I'm at that stage.

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CARE NOTES

PLANTS IN POTS AND CONTAINERS

Acer palmatum 'Osakazuki'
Soil - moist but well-drained. It is suitable for growing in a large container, using John Innes No 3 compost, but must be kept well-watered.  Position - partial shade, away from cold winds.
This Japanese maple is fantastic for autumn colour. It has large, seven-lobed, mid-green leaves, 10cm to 12cm (4in to 5in) long, which turn bright red in autumn. 
Protect young trees from winter frost with a 10cm mulch of organic matter, taking care to leave space around the trunk of the tree. No routine pruning is required, just remove any dead, damaged or crossing branches in late autumn or winter when they are fully dormant.  The autumn colour will be a stronger red on more acidic soils. On neutral soils the autumn colour is more orange / bronze.




CLEMATIS 'Princess Diana'   (Aug to Oct - bright pink tulip-like flowers)
Soil - well drained neutral fertile, Position - full sun to partial shade
'Princess Diana' is a Group 3 clematis and should be pruned back hard each year in late winter or early spring, removing previous year's stems to a pair of strong buds about 6 to 8 inches above ground level.  Apply slow release fertiliser and a mulch of well rotted compost.




CORKSCREW HAZEL  (golden-yellow catkins in Feb to Mar)
Soil - (fertile, well-drained, preferably chalky soil), Position - full sun or partial shade
The twisted stems, much-valued by flower-arrangers, also provide a curious and unusual focal point
Cut out dead, diseased and damaged wood in March and apply a 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted organic matter around the base of the plant.




HEBE 'EMERALD GREEN'  (evergreen grown mainly for foliage)
forms a tight dome of minute, green foliage. It reaches about 12 in (30 cm) high, and the same across. It does not flower.
Soil - Plant in moist, free-draining soil that is poor or moderately fertile. Position - a sheltered position in full sun or light shade.






 HONEYSUCKLE Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina'  (late Dutch honeysuckle) Deciduous.
(July to October - fragrant white/dark red flowers).
Soil - fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil, Position - Prefers light shade.
Cut back established plants after flowering, removing a third of the flowering shoots. Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the base of the plant in early spring.




HONEYSUCKLE Lonicera periclymenum 'Belgica'  (early Dutch Honeysuckle) Deciduous.
(May and June - fragrant white flowers that turn deep yellow, and are streaked red outside)
Soil - fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil, Position - Prefers sun or part shade.
Cut back established plants after flowering, removing a third of the flowering shoots. Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the base of the plant in early spring.






PIERIS 'Flaming Silver'.  Small evergreen shrub
Soil - humus-rich, moist, well-drained acid soil or ericaceous compost, Position - Full sun or partial shade.
(April and May flowers)
Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of composted pine needles or peat each year around the base of the plant in early spring. Remove the faded flower heads in late spring along with any frost-damaged foliage.






Spiraea Little Princess. (July - Aug pink flowers)
Soil - any moist well drained soil.  Position - Full sun.  Height 20 inches (50 cms)
Prune to shape after flowering.
This plant is good for attracting butterflies and moths to your garden.  Slow-growing, deciduous, mound forming hedge or specimen shrub. Height 2ft.
Summer-blooming spireas generally bloom on new growth. Prune them in late winter or early spring before the leaves emerge. Deadheading of spent flowers during the summer not only prevents the formation of seed, but also encourages repeat bloom later in the season.




TREE FERN (Discksonia Antartica)
Soil - humus-rich, neutral to acid soil,  Position - partial to full shade
These impressive tree ferns are one of the oldest plants in the world. They will happily grow in any soil as long as the trunk is kept moist.

As these plants absorb their nutrients through the trunk, water and feed by spraying the whole stem and crown. They are not fully hardy so will need protection in winter. In milder areas you can do this by gently stuffing a few handfuls of fallen leaves into the crown. In colder parts of the country pack the crown with straw before wrapping it with strips of frost fleece, or over-winter it in an unheated greenhouse. As the new growth starts to emerge in spring, the protection should be removed.




WHITE PASSIONFLOWER  ('Constance Elliott')  July to Sept flowering
Soil - Passion flowers grow and bloom best when the soil is kept moist. They don’t handle drought well. Soil pH can be in the neutral range. Position - need at least 4 full hours of sunlight a day.
The genus Passiflora contains over 400 species, so the common name Passion Flower can be a bit confusing.  What they all share are exotic flowers that only remain open for about 1 day.  Some vines will not need any pruning, but pruning will result in a fuller plant. Pruning can be done in late winter or early spring. In cooler climates, the vines may die back to the ground anyway.
Stop feeding in late summer. Mulch the area around the roots, once the soil temperature drops. 
Choose three to five of the strongest shoots, tying them in to horizontal wires. Once the plant is established, cut back the flowered shoots immediately after flowering to within two or three buds of the permanent framework of the plant. In spring remove dead, misplaced or overcrowded stems.
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PLANTS IN THE GROUND


EVERLASTING SWEET PEA (Lathyrus latifolius)  (flowers July to Oct?)

Variety unknown (typical of Morrison's).  Full sun or partial shade. Height to 8ft.

FORSYTHIA 'WEEKEND' (flowers Mar to Apr)
Soil - moist but well drained, Position - full sun or light shade
Weekend Forsythia has the same abundant large flowers as other Forsythias but without the wild branches as it is more compact.  Right after flowering, cut out all of the stems that have flowered - back to a good healthy pair of buds. Depending upon how vigorous your forsythia variety is, the pruning cuts may be from between 12 in (30cm) to 2ft (60cm) in length. At the same time - with an established shrub, it is a good idea to cut a few stems back down to within a few inches (cms) of the ground - say one out of every three stems pruned this way. This will encourage basal shoots to grow, which will keep the Forsythia well provided with strong stems to flower in later years.  Forsythia flowers on stems and buds made in the previous year. If you prune Forsythia too late in the year, then you will be cutting off the next spring's flower buds and flowering stems! 

Newly planted forsythias need plenty of water while they are getting established. After that, if they are planted in good soil that is rich in organic matter so it holds moisture and drains well forsythias can manage fine with normal rainfall, especially if they are mulched.  Do not overdo fertilizer as forsythias do not need much encouragement to grow.



WILD EDRIC ROSE


Position - Plant in a location with at least a few hours of sun each day and where the roots of the rose will not be in competition with the roots of plants - especially trees and hedges.


Wild Edric is a tough, reliable and healthy rose which can be used to create a very attractive, scented boundary hedge.  4ft x 4ft.  
Roses are hungry plants that respond well to generous feeding.
Sprinkle general-purpose or rose fertiliser around roses in spring at 70g per sq m (2oz per sq yd)
Mulch with rotted organic matter, ideally rotted manure, immediately after adding fertiliser.  Roses have roots that come up near the soil surface, so hoeing is best avoided or at least kept very shallow. Mulching and planting groundcover plants will help to keep roses weed-free.


Weedkillers based on glyphosate and other systemic chemicals might be taken up by rose suckers and can cause severe damage to roses. 

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Garden Summary 2010 to 2011

2010  -  The first few months here were quite different in the garden, or maybe I was.
I was aware of the energies of my garden in a very strong way, and felt the life force of the land surging through my body.  The only time I felt well was when I was out in the garden, and it seemed as though the unseen world of nature was assisting me in some way.
Intuitively I also felt that the spirit of the garden was celebrating my arrival and was glad I was taking over its maintenance.

There was also much non-verbal communication going on with the birds and local animals, and I found myself in a surreal and magical 4th dimensional world.  Birds would also come and visit me at the house by hovering outside my kitchen window.  The local cats stayed out of my garden when I made it clear, telepathically, that they couldn't take a short cut through it.  

Clearing the ivy was the main task when I first moved in.  About 50 sacks of it at least.
I eventually hired a gardener to remove the ivy I couldn't reach at the top of the high retaining wall because I've no head for heights going up ladders.  I developed an intense dislike of ivy, especially when my skin started to react to it by breaking out in an itchy rash.  I wore gardening gloves too, but there were always exposed parts on my wrists and arms and that rash lasted months as nothing seemed to soothe it.  





2011  -  Less aware of the energies of the garden as time went on, or maybe I just became used to it so it felt less intense.  Walking up the two flights of stone steps to my back garden was becoming exhausting, especially when carrying water up in buckets during the drought of Spring 2011.  There is no outside tap and the way the garden is laid out in terraces with a high wall outside my back door makes it difficult to even use a hose.  Usually there is enough rainfall to not need one.

My neighbour cut down the dead tree (killed by the ivy) on the terrace, plus a few ash saplings growing on the path.  As I live in a Conservation Area I had to get permission from the local council to fell the more mature ash trees at the end of the garden and a huge holly tree, which was blocking the light on one of the raised beds by the deck. 
I have two years to sort that work out before the permission expires.

Both my neighbours moved out this year.  
Don't know who it was, but somebody decided to build a barricade of logs along the boundary between the trees at the end of the garden, which is an eyesore.  There was only a small overgrown gap at the end of my garden because that strip of land at the end of next doors garden once belonged to the previous owner of my house, who had since sold it back to my neighbour who rents that house out and doesn't live there.

This was the first time that the energies didn't feel good in my garden as, feeling into it, I could sense some hostility there. It felt like an aggressive act, especially as the logs used to create said barricade had been taken from my own log pile, which had been left in a mess.  I was shocked that someone would trespass on my sacred piece of land and that a boundary that affects both of us would be disfigured in this way without mentioning anything to me.  Not knowing who was responsible doesn't help either.
I never went out in the garden again after that, didn't put the garden to bed for the winter, and didn't take a tour of the garden until March 2012.  I just had a feeling of dread and kept putting it off.  Recently I had bought a new puppy, so went out with him for the first time in 2012 to look at the garden after the winter months.

The strong winds had blown the roofing felt off the summerhouse, and had broken two parts of the low fence on the other (west) side of the garden, the trellis by the deck was also completely destroyed.  And I found a small black backpack at the end of the garden near the opening where the log barricade had been put up.  I don't remember seeing it there before, but I suppose I should have kept it as evidence.  It had an empty bottle of Lynx aftershave inside.

That end of the garden was going to be my magical woodland glade garden, but it felt already desecrated by some patriarchal force that uses cheap aftershave.  I can plant some bushes that have thorns and prickles to fill in all the gaps in my boundaries, which I'll have to do anyway to make it a 'stock-proof boundary' so that my dog can be let loose out there rather than tethered to a long lead.


This year 2012, the priority jobs are the hard landscaping, mending of stone walls and making the boundaries more private and secure with hedge plants.